Phuket Travelers Net - Diving Around Phi Phi Islands

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The two Phi Phi Islands have long been a popular destination for budget travelers, drawn by their fabulous beaches, crystal-clear waters and dramatic limestone landscapes. Snorkeling around the islands' reefs is another major attraction, and scuba diving has taken off here in a big way. The islands are 50km (30 miles) southeast of Phuket and 40km (25 miles) south of Krabi.

The larger of the two islands is Koh Phi Phi Don, a stunning outcrop whose two halves are linked by a narrow isthmus. The elevated landmass on the eastern section of the island is covered in dense forest, criss-crossed by tracks, while the western half is virtually inaccessible due to the steep, hilly terrain. Most of the development on Koh Phi Phi Don has been concentrated on the sand-flats around the isthmus. Koh Phi Phi Ley is uninhabited. The rugged limestone cliffs of the island are home to populations of edible nest swiftels, whose nests are collected from inside large caves by local sea gypsies.

There has been a huge growth in the diving business here over the past few years and there are now at least a dozen dive operators in the growing township of Ao Tonsai. The area offers a good variety of different types of diving with abundant hard and soft corals and healthy fish populations. Local operators use either longtails or larger, specially converted boats. The larger boats here also offer day trips to the more far-flung sites of Hin Musang, Anemone Reef, Koh Dok Mai and the King Cruiser Wreck. Snorkeling around the island is excellent, with plenty of shallow coral gardens on the fringing reefs which are alive with colorful fish. Sadly considerable anchor damage was inflicted on some of the popular snorkeling areas in the past.

Location: 5km (3n. miles) due north of Koh Phi Phi Don. The dive follows around the island's northwestern apex. There is also an underwater pinnacle off the northeast shore.
Access: Less than 1hr from Ton Sai bay on Koh Phi Phi Don.
Conditions: Visibility averages 15m (50ft). Strong surface currents are frequent - sometimes rendering this site suitable for experienced divers only.
Average Depth: 16m (53ft)
Maximum Depth: 20m (66ft)

This site features abundant white soft corals covering the rocks everywhere. In addition, there are sea whips on the gentler slopes on the southwestern side. It is also well worth investigating the sandy bottom, since you will almost certainly discover large rays there, and have a good chance of spotting Leopard Sharks. A couple of big groupers are in residence, and the reef inhabitants include lionfish, wrasse, Rock Basslets, Moorish Idols, small moray eels, shrimps, hermit crabs and lobsters. Among the pelagics frequently seen passing by are barracuda, jacks and trevallies.

Location: On the northwest coast of Koh Phi Phi Don. The dive circumnavigates the large rocky outcrop just outside the bay.
Access: About 30min by larger diveboat and 1hr by longtail from Ton Sai Bay. The site can be entered off either the eastern or the western face of the rock. Diveboats wait for the divers and snorkellers in the sheltered bay to the east of the outcrop.
Conditions: Currents generally weak to moderate, but there is always a leeward side to this site. Visibility is in the range 5-30m (16-100ft). This makes a great night-diving selection.
Average Depth: 15m (50ft)
Maximum Depth: 21m (70ft)

This really is an enjoyable dive. The waters around the eastern face are shallow and ideal for snorkeling: there are lots of corals and colorful reef-fish among small boulders and rocks, encrusted with patches of sponges and interspersed with a multitude of Christmas-Tree Worms. The western section, by contrast, features a wall that descends to a depth of 20m (66ft). At the bottom of the southern end of the rock you encounter tumbled rocks that climb dramatically towards the shallower eastern rocks. At the northwestern apex you find large boulders, balanced on top of eachother; more experienced divers can explore a number of relatively tight swimthroughs. The wall features a wealth of marine life: many moray eels, squadrons of lionfish and Blue-ringed Imperial and Emperor Angelfish. The site is also a reliable place to see Ghost Pipefish.

Location: The rocky outcrop off Koh Phi Phi Don's southeastern headland.
Access: About 15min by diveboat or 30min by longtail from Ton Sai Bay. Diveboats can moor to either of the mooring buoys.
Conditions: Visibility, at about 7-15m (23-50ft), is acceptable. This is a good sheltered site with minimal current.
Average Depth: 8m (26ft)
Maximum Depth: 16m (53ft)

This shallow location is often a stopping-off point during the return from the southern sites; it offers good snorkeling and diving. The main feature is a shallow fringing reef. The flat, crest and upper slope attract snorkellers while divers can enjoy the whole spectrum of the site. Coral laminates dominate the reef, and there are some patch reefs. On the slope you see brain corals and staghorns above soft corals. There are many holes and tunnels for moray eels to pass through in their quest for food. Look out for invertebrates, too: small crabs and the occasional lobster mingle with busy cleaner shrimps. Damselfish, angelfish, small rock groupers, snappers, surgeonfish and basslets are other residents.

Location: The submerged pinnacle off Koh Phi Phi Don's southwestern headlands.
Access: About 15min by diveboat or 30min by longtail from Ton Sai Bay. A buoy marks the top of the pinnacle, and Longtails can moor to it; however, due to the shallow water above the pinnacle, larger diveboats will drop anchor away from the site.
Conditions: Visibility is very current-dependent, averaging about 8m (26ft) and peaking just above 20m (66ft). Strong currents are generally present; this dive should be done by experienced divers only as currents can rise abruptly.
Average Depth: 12m (40ft)
Maximum Depth: 28m (93ft)

The conditions permitting, is a great multi-level dive. The pinnacle is dominated by three interesting shelves - at 3m (10ft), 12m (40ft) and 15m (50ft). This provides ample and varied underwater scenery at all levels as you spiral upwards. There are good soft corals at all depths. The hard corals are represented by tubes and laminates. The deeper sections of the walls have numerous oysters and clams clinging to, and embedded in, the craggy surface. Many reef-fish are in evidence, including Lunar Wrasse, parrotfish, Honeycomb Groupers and Spotfin and Indian Lionfish. There are Bearded Scorpionfish, too, lurking among the coralline-encrusted rocks as they await their prey of tiny fish.

Location: The large, sheer cliffed lagoon at the southwestern end of Phi Phi Ley.
Access: About 30min by diveboat or at least 45min by longtail from Ton Sai Bay. Divers enter the water at the mooring buoy in the bay's northern entrance, and follow the coastline north.
Conditions: Visibility ranges from 8m and 30m (26-100ft). Current plays a big part in this dive: it can transform it from a gentle relaxed underwater tour to an exciting drift-dive. There would be good snorkeling anywhere in the bay were it not for the boat traffic.
Average Depth: 16m (53ft)
Maximum Depth: 24m (80ft)

The dive follows the coast along a steep shelved reef, with occasional sections of wall; hard corals, sea whips and various species of sea anemones cover the elevated shelves. The wall sections a fairly barren, but fortunately are the minority. There are also small offshore pinnacles and submerged rocks to explore. Colorful wrasse of all sizes and schools of Moorish Idols and bannerfish constantly pass by. You can see lots of mating cuttlefish below the central cliff section. Above, on the lower ledges, are scattered Crown-of-Thorns Starfish and Jewel-box Sea Urchins.

Location: Around the towering offshore limestone structure in the bay that cuts into the southern coastline of Phi Phi Ley.
Access: About 40min by diveboat or 90min by longtail from Ton Sai Bay. The preferred entry point is directly off the outcrop's northern face. Scattered mooring buoys provide overnight securing for yachts. This site is recommended for night-diving.
Conditions: Visibility averages 15m (50ft). Currents, if any, are minimal along the northern face but can be moderate along the rock's more open southern wall.
Average Depth: 14m (46ft)
Maximum Depth: 20m (66ft)

The sandy bottom, at 8m (26ft), is punctuated by rocky ledges among which are numerous Bearded Scorpionfish. Fringing the rocks are numerous sea whips, some bent over by the aggregations of wing oysters clinging to them. The southern section of the site is deeper, at 20m (66ft), and follows a wall where many bivalves and clusters of soft corals are in evidence. Pairs of large Blue-ringed Angelfish explore the nooks and crannies.

Location: The outer of the two large outcrops directly south of Koh Phi Phi Ley.
Access: About 50min by diveboat or 1hr 40min by longtail from Ton Sai Bay. No mooring buoy.
Conditions: Visibility is in the 20m (66ft) range. Currents are weak to moderate.
Average Depth: 19m (63ft)
Maximum Depth: 30m (99ft)

The prime spot is the southwestern section, where the large rocks form a mountainous terrain, featuring walls that drop to elevated ledges. There are many gorgonian seafans, sea whips and colorful soft corals. Lots of Bearded Scorpionfish disguise themselves amid the rocks, and various species of lionfish hover between. Varying sizes and species of colorful parrotfish and wrasse, along with large schools of Moorish Idols, seem to be at all depths. The higher ledges have numerous sea anemones well populated by clownfish. As if this were not enough, this site offers, over the sand, Leopard Sharks and various blennies and gobies. Another bonus is that Manta Rays and Whale Sharks are often here

Location: A small rocky outcrop 8km (4n. miles) southeast of Phi Phi Ley. It stands proud of the water by a mere 1m (40in).
Access: Just over 1hr from Phi Phi Don, just over 1hr 30min from Koh Lanta and about 2hr from Koh Phuket. There is no mooring buoy.
Conditions: Visibility is good, averaging about 20m (66ft). Current generally weak to moderate.
Average Depth: 12m (40ft)
Maximum Depth: 18m (60ft)

This easy dive follows an area of submerged rocks immediately northeast of the outcrop. These gently slope down northwards to sand at 18m (60ft). The area due north of the outcrop is covered with scattered rocks and is shallower, at about 5m (16ft); in calm conditions snorkellers can enjoy schools of colorful reef-fish, including Blue-lined Snapper and Harlequin Sweetlips, not to mention more static attractions like multicolored Plumeworms, featherstars and crinoids. This location's secondary name refers to the overwhelming presence of Leopard Sharks. There are also lots of cuttlefish, squid and Titan Triggerfish. Large Undulated and Golden Moray Eels, Spiny Lobsters and octopuses attempt to obscure themselves within the many craggy holes and crevices.