© History & Culture -  Travelers' Net

Sonkraan (pronounced with the "a" like in "army", not like in "abe") is the Thai New Year - the word originates from Sanskrit, meaning "the beginning of the Solar Year".

It is - not unlike in the western world - the time for cleaning up from last year. Worn-out old clothes are burned, the house is cleaned thoroughly, promises are made etc.

Also, tradition prescribes to release caged birds and caught fish. For this reason, they are caught first - and then sold on markets for release! Old people are bathed by the young, to show respect, and Buddha images are bathed by everybody.

Songkran peaks at the 13th of April, but the activities run a couple of days on each side.

"It's Songkran agaaaiiiin!"

Even if a bucket of water with ice down your back is not your cup of tea, better join up at Bangla Road. It is for most people the funniest day of the year...

I read the above facts in the tourist's brochures even before I came here first time. Now, I have seen everything. So I was prepared to go out this beautiful sunny day, the 12th of April 1997, 3 p.m.

Preparations are easily described: Do what you would do, if you knew, that somebody would throw you in a muddy water hole. Put on old shoes and clothes. Don't carry anything, that might be harmed by water or dust.

Nothing to it - except, that I wanted to shoot some pictures. My trusty old Nikon would not survive if not protected. So, I glued a glass plate on the lens filter, and glued a plastic-bag to the glass-plate, thus creating a 'raincoat with  window', that would have had the camera surviving even the toughest shower.

I also knew, that it would be in for something worse
When I left the office, I got the first warning. Wally, the female manager of our office building, came to me, and said "I will songkran you!".

The 'mule of Asia', my Honda Dream, was waiting for me. I managed to drive about 30 meters, before the first water hit me. Some boys, lined up on the roadside, threw a bucket of water after me. I was being songkraned for the first time!

I would be songkraned a couple of more times before I reached my destination: Bangla Road, the main fun-street of Patong.

As usual on this day, there was sort of a traffic jam. Pick-Ups filled with loads of people were, like lambs to the slaughter, waiting to drive from the Thaweewong road (the beach road) up Bangla Road. I parked my motorbike, and started walking.

Suddenly, I was in the middle of it, just outside Roxy Bar. A couple of nice looking girl shouts "Hey, sexy man" to me. After 3 years here, I am not really flattered, but I stop to take their picture. They continue to wave at me, as my old Nikon opens and closes the shutter one more time - just half a second before the final step of the girls plan are realized: Somebody pours a tremendous bucket of ice water on me from behind.

Did you ever try that? The reaction is sure: You freeze, get instantly totally stiff, your mouth opens wide, and a big gasp emerges your throat. It takes several seconds to return to normal life.

But as an experienced Songkraner, I do not even turn around. My thoughts are on my Nikon, but the raincoat is functioning fine.

There I stand, in the middle of Bangla road, with a Nikon in a wet condom, and looking like a drowned mouse. Do I attract attention? Not the very least! I am sharing destiny with several hundreds of other people. There are nobody here, who are not already sulking wet.

A Westerner is chasing a Thaigirl. She is screaming, laughing and running. His intentions are clear from the big filled bucket in his hand. He is probably seeking revenge from a similar attack. But instead, another girl takes the opportunity to throw a can of water into his face.

Cans and buckets are, however primitive, the most effective weapon, rapidly discharging several liters of water. But also other means are being used. Especially impressive are the water guns. When I was a child, such things were as small as a handgun, and squirted out a very small beam when you pulled the trigger.

Such a thing would be of absolutely no use here. Big, two-tanked monsters with compression-system are being sold everywhere, and would fit any Rambo. They beam water over a distance of 15 meters or more.

What ever you can imagine of pumps, cans, jars, sprinklers, squatters, hoses, containers, bags... It is here, and it is all being used.

But water is not the only thing used. Talcum, the white powder, usually used at babies sore skin etc., is in the hands of dozens of girls and boys. You can be songkraned with talcum in two variations: The dry and the wet.

In the dry variation, somebody will simply, directly from the dispenser, pour it into your hair or over your clothes. Some talcum have a bit of a sting, with menthol or similar ingredients.

The wet variation has become increasingly popular - here, the talcum are being mixed with water, to generate a thick paste. Depending on consistency, this can be thrown or poured over the person, that the activist intend to songkran.

There is absolutely no discrimination. Everybody receives the wish of "Happy Songkran". People in supermarkets, the police, tourists, doctors...

Occasionally, a seemingly unaware tourist in his best dress with a handbag is caught in the inferno. Some pardon exists - not a 100% one, though, he or she will still be wet and white, but maybe not so mush as a real songkraner.

Now, I am enjoying this event for the fourth time. And really, I see in this event one of the true differences between modern Western and Thai tradition and nature. This could never work in Denmark, or, I believe, in Europe, USA or anywhere else actually. How long time would it take, before somebody lost his or her temper? When would the first paint be used instead of water, not to mention even more advanced liquids? Not long, that is for sure.

I have never seen it happen here. I have yet to see anyone get angry. I have never seen a fight.

Oh, of course, this "modern Songkran" has its side effects. Flues, colds caught, infections from impure water - all is common.

But so far, I have escaped - so did my Nikon, although it became a little wet and muddy talcumed.

Surely - songkran the "Bangla Way" is the party of the year. True joy and happiness from people in a good mood (who said 'children') washing away the worries and troubles of last year. However cold the ice-water, this warms the heart and soul as much as the Thai sun, that is usually still shining from the blue sky at this time of the year.

If you ever get the chance - get songkraned!